Table of contents
- Installing the Moates Ostrich 2.0 EEPROM Emulator
- Emulating with the Ostrich
Installing the Moates Ostrich 2.0 EEPROM Emulator
IMPORTANT: You really should load a BIN into the Ostrich before installation. Follow my "Emulating with the Ostrich" tutorial up to Step 5 and you should be good. The Ostrich only needs to be plugged into your laptop/PC USB connection to program it.
- Electrical tape
- Small flathead screwdriver or needle-nose pilers
- Phillips head screwdriver for removing kick panel
- Socket for removing ECU retaining bolt
- Ostrich Emulator (hurrr)
- Steady hands
Remove the kick panel from the right hand side of the passenger's footwell. You should see the ECU. Remove the retaining bolt from the ECU.
Pull the ECU out of the slot BEFORE attempting to disconnect it from the harness. I've done it a few times and it's way easier without the ECU in it's cradle. Disconnect the harness.
Flip over the unit and there are ten metal flaps holding the lid on. Use your flathead screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to bend them out of the way. Find a relatively static free location to work and open the lid!
Here is what it looks like after the small plastic retainer over the Eprom has been removed.(Eprom inside red marking)
|Here I have already removed the factory EEPROM, after first removing the white plastic retaining clip.|
Using your flathead screwdriver, remove the EEPROM retaining clip. Then, gently start easing the EEPROM out of it's socket by slowly wiggling in the flathead screwdriver from either side, a little bit at a time. Be careful not to scratch the PCB. Once the EEPROM is out, put it somewhere for safekeeping. An old film canister or Rx bottle works fine for this. If you have some antistatic foam, press the EEPROM's pins into it to prevent them from being bent.
|Note the orientation and insert the emulation header into the socket. It should press fit snugly. Ensure that all sides are inserted securely.|
|Fold the cable back on the header; it will be exiting the ECU via the top.|
|Wrap some electrical tape around the cable where it contacts the metal edge of the case. This will prevent the case from pinching the cable.|
|Install the case. From the rear, bend the right-most tab on top all the way back to clear the cable.|
|Making a small cutout in the cover might be a more permanent solution.|
|Bend the highlighted tabs back into place to secure the ECU. We will leave the ones near the cable unsecured to prevent pinching the cable any more than necessary. If you want to avoid bending the tabs too many times then consider keeping the cover fitted with duct tape or similar. Leaving the fragile tabs just protruding until time for final assembly of the ECU.|
|In the car ( 740 shown here ) , run the cable into, behind, then out of the ECU retaining bracket. Gently re-install the ECU while taking up slack on the cable.|
|Take your pliers and slightly bend the retaining bracket outwards. Feed the cable back in, and attach the Ostrich. Mind the correct orientation of the connector into the Ostrich.|
|Fold the cable and press the Ostrich into place as shown. Vacuum your carpet! You're done!|
Emulating with the Ostrich
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SWITCH ON THE ENGINE AT THIS STAGE !!So everything is plugged in, nice and neat. You've got your wideband installed, and a nice shiny gauge to go with it. Now we need to get the Ostrich loaded up with some firmware; it does not inculde any by default.
The preferred way is if you have already programmed the Ostrich before installing it in your car.
More on this further down.
1. Install the driversMy Ostrich didn't come with a driver disk; they are available online.
Driver download (moates.net): http://www.moates.net/usb-driver-p-215.html
Note: The Ostrich is a FTDI chipset USB->serial device; you may have drivers already. I still recommend using the drivers available online.
2. Plug in USBConnect the USB to your laptop/PC. Windows should do its thing and indicate that the hardware has installed successfully.
AT THIS POINT YOUR KEY SHOULD BE OUT OF THE INGITION. DON'T TURN YOUR KEY ON IF THE OSTRICH HAS NOT BEN PROGRAMMED YET, , FLOOD YOUR MOTOR, OVERHEAT A COMPONENT, POSSIBLY KILL YOUR NEIGHBOR'S CAT. DON'T DO IT. Note: I have confirmed, it will flood the motor! A blank program causes LH to hold the injectors open.
3. Launch TunerPro RTInstall/Open TunerPro RT(Version 5). The previous versions won't work for this! If everything has gone well up to this point, you should hear a two-tone "happy" beep, and TunerPro will acknowledge the Ostrich. The status bar at the bottom of the TunerPro window should say something to the effect of "Connected: Ostrich II USB". You are now officially cooking with gas. Let's load a bin and start the car.
4. Load BIN and XDF
If you haven't already, download the appropriate BIN and XDF from the File Gallery. Select the appropriate XDF and BIN for your application.
If you are using a 5oo series ECU choose the appropriate BIN for this ECU.
Mixing 900 series bin files with 500 series ECU can result in weird behaviour !!!
Turbo engines preferably 560
N/A engines preferably 561C
If using a 900 series ECU then it is smartest to go with a 900 series bin file
Several conditions must be considered choosing 900 series bin files.
with or without E-fan
with or withouth Immobilizer
946 for N/A and 962 for Turbo are best documented.
Both will work with E-fan and disable Immobilizer.
Choose and download the approprite files to your Tunerpro directory.
Bin to bin folder and XDF to definitions folder.
From the XDF menu, click Select XDF.
Next navigate to the folder where you downloaded your XDF.
Because our Ostrich is installed in the LH2.4 fuel computer, we need to load a Fuel XDF.
Once the XDF is loaded, you should have a few items in the Parameter Tree in the left hand side of the TunerPro Window.
Open the "View By" drop down box, and select "Parameter Category or Parameter Type".
Scalars, Flags, and Tables.
Scalars are single-location memory values; a good example is the RPM limit.
Flags are single functions that can be toggled on/off.
Tables are where the interesting stuff is.
We'll get to this more later.
Next, load a BIN file. From the File menu, select Open Bin.
Browse to your BIN and open it.
5. Sanity CheckLet's make sure the BIN we've loaded and the XDF we have are compatible. Expand the "Main Fueling Parameters" section and select "Main Fuel Trim Map". Double click to open the map. It should look similar to this (This is a Turbo map, NA will be a little different):
If the XDF and BIN are matched correctly, your fuel map should have a nice smooth gradient. If it is all one value or has odd stripes running through it, something went wrong. Slap yourself and go back to Step 4!
6. Program OstrichWe've got our BIN, we've got our XDF, and we are ready to go. In the middle of the TunerPro toolbar, there is a series of three arrows. From left to right, they are Upload, Download to TunerPro, Download to File.
We want to upload. After you click the upload button, you should see a status bar at the bottom of the window, it usually only takes a few seconds.
When the upload is done, Select Tools > Emulation > Start Emulating .
7. Start the car!At this point, we are plugged in, programmed, and itching to start the car. The bottom left corner of the TunerPro window should have a GREEN inicator (Emulating). Now we are ready.
Turn the key to run (not start) and listen for the fuel pump. You should hear it run for a few seconds, then shut off. If it does not run, you need to check your connection between the Ostrich and the ECU.
If the fuel pump primes successfully, start the car! Congratulations! You are ready to start tuning!
To get started tuning, start browsing the parameter tree and choose what parameter that needs tweaking.
Some words of advice!
Do not change parameters while engine is running !
If checksum is not updated before uploading file to Ostrich the CEL light will be lit
and ECU revert to limp mode.
Checksum is easy to update with IPDOWNs checksum plugin for Tunerpro.
More on this in separate section.
The internal battery in the Ostrich will last for years, hence no need to burn a chip until completely satisfied with your tuning.
The stock Volvo bins have a tendency to run very rich on high load/rpm.
Tuning is easier if the Lambda flag is disabled (Lambda functionality is shut off)